San Sebastian, Day 3

Had to catch an early train to San Sebastian and the train ride was long and when we arrived I foolishly suggested we walk to our hotel.  We got hopelessly lost but, fortunately, a woman on a bike I approached about directions was kind enough to walk us to our hotel.  After we checked in, we set out for lunch and ended up at El Fuego Negro.  It was crowded but we managed to squeeze in at the bar–we ordered a tuna, peppers, and onion tapa which turned out to be canned tuna (not what I expected) but pretty good.  I had tried ordering their variation on gazpacho but ended up with a tomato soup with a bechamel layer and mussels which was a happy mistake–it was very tasty.  Adam ordered their foie snack which was definitely no snack–a large chunk of caramelized foie gras cooked in a tin can with butterscotch sauce and good bread.  I’m not a big foie fan but this was good–the butterscotch sauce was super tasty.

After lunch we tried going to the local market, but, unfortunately, they were closing up as we got there.  We came across this as we left the building.

We walked around San Sebastian for a bit and then headed over to one of the town’s parks.  I was hoping to see or hear peacocks but it was still a nice stroll through the park.

Plaza in San Sebastian Centro

Church interior

I wanted to do some shopping so Adam and I split for a while and then reunited along the town waterfront in time to watch the sun set.  We then went on our first tapas crawl in San Sebastian, stopping first at Bar Ganbara for sauteed mushrooms with egg yolk (tasty but spendy) and spider crab tartlettes.


Then it was onto La Cuchara de San Telmo–we had trouble finding it but a guy standing by a nearby tapas restaurant was nice enough to walk us over–props to the people of San Sebastian!  We ordered a canelloni and octopus with cabbage tapas.  Small but tasty–the sauce that came with the canelloni was delectable!

Canelloni- won't you be mine?

Then it was onto Bar Zeruko, which has the most interesting tapas, aesthetically.  Unfortunately, they didn’t have a menu of their tapas so I had to ask one of the guys behind the bar what each tapas was so I’m sure there were a lot of delectable tapas that we missed out on, including their well known cod cooked over coals which, sadly, I did not get a picture of.  One of my goals during this trip was to try uni, or sea urchin so I was happy when they pulled out a tray of sea urchins.  As it turned out, they were sea urchin gratins which wasn’t quite what I had in mind so the search continues.

Sea urchin gratin

We were completely stuffed by this point but while we were walking around San Sebastian, we came across this restaurant, noticed their dessert menu and the fact they would be closed the next night so we shrugged and went inside.  Adam ordered a wine which was probably my favorite out of the whole trip, a muscat from the Navarra region.  The dessert souffles on the menu caught my attention and I got a chocolate souffle with coffee cream which was good but more molten chocolate cake then souffle.  Adam smartly ordered their French toast dessert with cheese ice cream which was very good.  We stumbled home very happy.


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